MFW Review: Milan Declares That it’s Time to Go Out
By Genevieve Betancourt
Web design by Hugh Ferguson
Photo credits of Gorunway.com
The week of September 23rd, Milan’s first post-lockdown fashion week was held in the most normal capacity that Italy’s fashion capital could afford. From the comfort of my kitchen counter (and my twin XL bed), I watched as the various shows reclaimed the liveliness that Milan had so visibly lacked in the past year. While digital shows were still present, the majority of designers decided to show their designs to in-person audiences.
Photo credits of Gorunway.com
The downtime afforded to many individuals during the pandemic allowed for a period of self-reflection where many, like myself, decided to discard the faux persona they had been giving to the world and embody who they truly are. Many of Milan’s designers seemed to imbue their work with this idea, designing their lines with the mission to help us out of the door and re-enter the world as our true selves—to finally go all out. Designers like Etro, Missoni, Blumarine, and Fendi did this by curating shows bedecked with fun, fresh, and spunky designs—all full with the feeling that the world is shaking off the languor of being stuck behind windows and screens.
From my computer, I observed the extensive use of bright, vibrant, and warm colors in the designers’ lines. Though they felt very fitting for spring, the season of new beginnings, it felt as if the colors also represented the designers’ collective sense of hope and excitement in light of the hardships we all faced during the pandemic. It seemed that the designers and I shared the same strong desire to return back to normal, even as constant news unlocks fear that this pandemic may never truly be over.
Photo credits of Gorunway.com
Popularly making their way down the runway were looser, A-line silhouettes that had an air of put-together comfort — an essential for post-pandemic fashion. While quarantine made me miss the liveliness and excitement of the outside world, I had fallen in love with the 24/7 comfort provided from wearing sweats all day. It was as if the designers anticipated this hesitancy and unwillingness to sacrifice the comfort that we had all grown so accustomed to and addressed it with what I saw come flowing down the catwalk. The pieces felt like they were designed with ease of movement in mind, and it felt as if the designers had truly empathized with us—or were even feeling the same way.
Photo credits of Gorunway.com
Fendi started the week off strong to the sound of Moodymann’s Shades of Jae. While most probably remember designer Kim Jones’s more publicized collaboration with Donatella Versace, he partnered with Delfina Delettrez Fendi and Silvia Venturini Fendi for Fendi’s ready-to-wear SS22 line. It was difficult to pick favorite parts of this collaboration, but after lots of careful deliberation, I decided that the standout ensembles were the silk lamé pieces and the Érte-esque printed coats.
I’m a huge fan of Érte art, so when I saw models Vittoria Ceretti and Maty Fall walk down the long hall in their printed coats, my jaw hit the floor. If I had the money to spend on an off-the-runway coat, I would have already inserted my card into Fendi’s chip reader. The fabric seemed luxurious and comfortable, and the prints were absolutely gorgeous. The use of rich browns and bright pastels paired with those accent red lips made me want to strut out into the chilly weather and be seen, something I haven’t wanted to happen since the invisibility granted by the pandemic made me feel comfortable being completely me.
That being said, I don’t think that anything can really top the silk lamé ensembles. The pieces had such beautiful movement, floating down the hall as the silk lamé reflected the light beautifully. The fabric seemed weightless and baby-soft. The pieces looked so comfortable and glided so easily that they almost seemed a little bit like those robes that wealthy women wear in movies—you know, the ones that glide behind them, sometimes with fur trim. And as someone who has become a religious wearer of robes, this would be my go-to night out choice. To think of it, I don’t think I’ve ever really worn something that looked as comfortable for a girls’ night out—but I want to.
Photo credits of Gorunway.com
I also thoroughly enjoyed the bright colors and printed fabrics used. If you take a closer look, you see a little logorama action going on, but it’s so subtle—especially compared to Fendace—that I think it looks fantastic and adds a little bit to the texture of the otherwise completely smooth silk lamé fabric. I also felt a little bit of some ‘60s and ‘70s influence with the strapless pieces due to the prints, and I absolutely adored it.
Etro took prét-a-porter comfort to another level with multiple pairs of sweats. Yeah, you heard me: sweatpants made their way down the Milan Fashion Week runway. The variations that they came in—denim-like fabrics, patterned fabric knee patches, and bright, vivid prints—and the effortless way with which the soft-looking material moved proved that Etro is a brand where style and comfort are not mutually exclusive. The sweats were paired with items that ranged from knitted halter crop tops to printed blazers, showcasing that sweatpants can be styled for any occasion.
Photo credits of Gorunway.com
Photo credits of Gorunway.com
Although, I have to say that my favorite part of the Etro collection was the use of vivid prints and patterns. Colorful florals, mandala embroideries, bright paisley prints, parsi embroidery-style graphics, and tree of life motifs presented by Veronica Etro tied the entire line around a theme of early 70s nostalgia, mixed with classic hippie style. Both are personal favorites of mine, and seeing the 21st century version of such styles was exciting in the context of the decade's play we’re seeing in current trends—i.e., Y2K and ‘90s nostalgia styles.
Photo credits of Filippo Fior /Gorunway.com
Following Etro was Nicola Brognano’s Blumarine collection. The line was right on top of the current Y2K trend, with butterfly motifs, ab-baring tops, and fur-lined pieces. While early 2000’s inspirations aren't new to Blumarine, the SS22 ready-to-wear collection is definitely keeping up with current fashion trends.
Photo credits of Filippo Fior /Gorunway.com
I can already see the pieces being worn on the streets of any city. To wear one of these designs, you wouldn’t need a reason—be it a girls' night out or a dinner at a nice restaurant—all you need is a desire to wear beautiful, fun clothes. Brognano’s artistic decisions seem to reflect the idea that, this spring, the world will be out in full force and needs the attire for the occasion. If this is what we’ll be wearing, I’m all in.
Missoni took excitement for new beginnings to a different level by reconfiguring pieces that we’ve seen on the streets before into completely new works of art. My favorite of these innovations were his crop top with a train and the halter that requires no fabric, just beads. They’re spunky and cool, and the second I saw them make their way down the catwalk, my heart skipped a beat. Up until this moment in fashion week, I had seen wonderful texture, color, patterns, and so forth, but it had felt a bit as though a lot of the same was just being revamped for a post-COVID spring season. Missoni’s pieces were new and daring and exactly what I was looking for from Milan’s first fashion week back post-lockdown.
Taking everything in, Milan Fashion Week showed us that Italy is tired of being indoors and they’re letting us know it. The flood of bright colors and bold patterns, animal motifs, flowing tops, frilles, and textures of all sorts is prime evidence for it. The pieces were made to make you feel ready to go out into the world and to push you out of the door at the same time—almost as if Milan’s designers have a tough-love policy, and while they understand that it’s not easy to go from half dressed for a Zoom call to wearing pants for multiple hours, they’re not taking no for an answer. What we witnessed was Milan’s fashion leaders declaring that it was time to go out, it was time to be seen, and it was time to be loud about it all.
Photo credits of Filippo Fior /Gorunway.com
