"Pavillon des Folies”: A Look into Valentino SS25 and Alessandro Michele’s striking debut in Paris

Gabriella Mbaoua

01.23.25

Shattered mirrors cover the runway. White sheets drape over pieces of furniture to paint  a picture of abandonment. Models dressed in fine garments walk in and out of shadows as tasteful violins play in the background. It’s one of the most beautiful yet haunting visuals to come out of Paris Fashion Week. 

Valentino lives on in a new director, whose debut at  Paris Fashion Week SS25 was pervaded with an eerie romance that only Alessandro Michele, former creative director of Gucci, could deliver. 

Michele’s Impact 

In March 2024, Valentino announced that Pierpaolo Piccioli would be stepping down as the brand’s creative director, succeeded by former Gucci leader  Alessandro Michele, whose reputation as the originator of “Geek-Chic” will mark a major shift in the brand’s 92 year history.

Entitled “Pavillon des Folies,” french for “flag of madness,” the collection marks the start of a new era for Alessandro Michele’s Valentino. “We know: when we build beauty, or we spot it in the undifferentiated and chaotic flow of our existences, it feels like being raptured in a state of joy that can tear us away from senselessness,” Michele wrote on the brand’s Instagram.

Michele draws inspiration from how time limits human expression. How far can these boundaries push us? What is it about beauty that connects humanity to its transformative power over human expression? On the topic of beauty, he reflects, “That superfine and precious spider’s web that allows us to float over the void.”  

 Referencing ideas from a range of European poets and philosophers, Michele builds upon what this collection means for him and why he felt it was necessary to return as a creative in the fashion world. There is a new air of excitement in Valentino that hasn’t been seen in many years, and many are hopeful of Michele’s success with the brand.  

Credit: laiamagazine

Periodical Elements 

Valentino’s SS25 collection is a cross between literary genres. There’s an air of gothic fiction in the collection’s makeup design that lends itself perfectly to the mourning veil motif that covers many of the models’ faces. Romance emerges  from the many bright colors, creating warmth suitable for romantic fantasy-inspired visuals. However, what makes this show so brilliant is how it circulates through time periods, each design capturing snapshots of fashion as it was viewed during the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s.  

 We see chic and dynamic references to 60s era Italian fashion with polka dots, vivid colors, ruffles, and enormous wide-brimmed hats. Reflections of  experimental men’s fashion from the 1970s can be seen in tightly fitted suits, wide lapels, and flared pants. There’s even a hint of punk accessorizing as models meander the cracked runway rocking fake piercings on their noses and lips, a nod to the early work of Vivienne Westwood, the mother of punk herself. This decade wraps up with references to true 70s glamour, which is encompassed by shimmering fabrics and gaudy jewelry — staples for the average Studio 54 attendee.  

 The 80s influence in this collection adds as an extension of the 60s and 70s with a heavy emphasis on pop culture and streetwear. Though not as prevalent, this era presents itself through bulky denim and neck chains like what we’ve seen in early ages of hip-hop culture, and the looks covered with lace, heavy accessories and lingerie styles might’ve intrigued a very provocative 80s pop icon in Madonna. With all the carefully chosen elements of some of the most influential decades in fashion, the collection’s eclectic and somewhat chaotic display means so much more for what fashion is today reflecting the modern tendency to blend or reinterpret fashion elements beyond a single unified aesthetic.

History is important when discussing fashion because it outlines the messy yet beautiful evolution of cultural style.  Michele knows the importance of these decades within the story of humanity, aligning each element with  societal shifts  that slowly brought us further and further from our traditionalist roots. However, holding on to parts of the past depicts the true meaning of our existence: society is a collection of beliefs and experiences inherited from those before. Michels’s “precious spider web” metaphor supports this idea, showing humanity’s ability to weave together the past and present to help us define beauty.

Valentino Beyond Piccioli

Credit: British GQ

Now, teased with a brief glance at Michele’s creative leadership, the fashion world begs the question: What will Valentino look like in the years to come? Having spent a quarter-century designing some of the most rebellious yet elegant pieces that the brand has ever seen, Piccioli was well-loved in the industry and will be remembered for his modern style of florals, ruffles, ribbons, and vibrant colors. Valentino under Piccioli was committed to making a statement that would last.  His dedication to changing the picture of the fashion industry, whether it’s redefining menswear or embracing beauty in all shades,  is wholly reflected in his work. In a 2022 interview for W Magazine, Piccioli said, “It was about giving a stage — a big, institutional stage — to people who are not usually allowed to be in such a central space of fashion.” 

Piccioli often focused on the future of the fashion industry, constantly pushing for new forms of artisanship that invoke simplicity and vibrancy in both couture and ready-to-wear designs. Michele draws from fashion's past, intersecting references from classic 20th century narratives. In doing so, Michele also strips away conformity in his presentations — breaking down gender norms by casting non-binary and gender-fluid models in runway shows and drawing inspiration from progressive movements of the past. Both artists are dedicated to change and reinvention, and Valentino has remained a powerhouse in fashion because of their commitment to pushing boundaries.  It’s hard to let go of the ones that lead with such roaring love like Piccioli, but it might be an exciting feeling to welcome the ones that create a different kind of noise like Michele.

Credit: Schon! Magazine

Beauty and Madness in Michele 

Based on Valentino’s performance this season, it’s clear that Michele’s future as the brand’s new creative head holds immense promise, with a boundless vision and liberating drive.  Imbued with a myriad of literary and historical references, “Pavillon des Folies” articulates societal progression through the lens of fashion. Michele’s approach to this season is not only an artistic statement but a deeply personal one, carving out his own identity in a new creative landscape. This collection captures his love for dressing, showing how the interplay of chaos and beauty can guide us through uncertainty.